Steady
Climb for fun, stay healthy, keep fitness ticking over. Low fatigue, no maximal finger work, lots of movement.
Hardest effort 7 of 10
Closed beta on Android
A plan thatkeeps upwith you
Edgewise is a climbing training app that adjusts your plan after every session you log: the load, the rest, the week ahead. And every rule it follows cites the research behind it.
Built on 169 sources, 124 of them published studies, reviews and guidelines.
Log it. The plan answers.
After every session you log, Edgewise checks how it went: how hard it felt, the reps you missed, any pain, and your weekly check-in. Then it raises the load, lowers it, or holds it, and tells you why.
Max hang20 mm edge, 7 seconds
102.5kg total
Up 2.5 kg
Two easy sessions: 100 → 102.5 kg total
Every load, every rest day and every deload in your plan comes from a written rule. Every rule names its research, and how strong that evidence is.
Built on 169 sources
From randomised trials and systematic reviews to coaching guidance. Every rule names the ones it rests on and how strong they are, and every knowledge card in the app lists its sources.
One dot per source. Expert opinion is coaching and clinical experience written down, used only where no study answers the question.
From your first answer to your next session
Tell it about you
Your grade, years climbing, sessions a week and the kit you own: a hangboard, a pull-up bar, a bouldering wall.
- 7 kinds of kit
- Sport, bouldering or both
- Grades on 6 scales
Test if you like
Optional tests set your starting loads, chosen by the kit you have. Skip them and start anyway.
- 9 tests
- Every one optional
- Any pain stops a test
Train the plan
Today shows one session, one tap from starting. Log each set and how hard it felt; the rest timer runs between them.
- One session a day
- A rest timer
- "It hurts" one tap away
Watch it adjust
Loads move with your logs and weekly check-ins, and every change says why.
- 21 adjustment rules
- A weekly check-in
- Lighter weeks planned in
Pick how hard to push
Balanced
Get steadily stronger and better without living at the wall. Two finger sessions a week in strength blocks, technique every week.
Hardest effort 8 of 10
Max performance
Periodised blocks aimed at a goal or season: maximal finger strength, then power, then performance. Highest fatigue; only unlocked for adults with enough experience.
Hardest effort 9 of 10
Hurt? Come back in stages
When you're hurt, it walks you back to climbing in sensible stages instead of leaving you to guess. Exercises that load the injury are left out, and each stage has a pain rule you check in against.
A training app, not a medical deviceEdgewise can't diagnose an injury. Some answers send you to a clinician first, and the plan pauses until you've been checked.
Your health data stays on your phone
- OfflineThe app has no internet access at all. Plans are built on your phone, with no account and no sign-in.
- Never soldNothing leaves your phone unless you send it yourself.
- Yours to take or deleteExport or delete everything in Profile, any time.
- Research only if you opt inOver 18, you can share your test results for research. It's off unless you turn it on.
Questions
Android 8.0 or newer. Edgewise is Android only for now.
No. You tell it the kit you own, and it builds the plan from that. The optional tests are chosen the same way.
No. The app has no internet permission: plans are built on your phone, and your data stays there.
No. Edgewise is a training app, not a medical device, and it can't diagnose an injury. When your answers point to something that needs a clinician, it says so and pauses the plan until you've been checked.
Fill in the form below. We invite testers in small groups through Google Play and email you a link when it's your turn.